Expert Article (Final)

The History of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar

There are so many simple everyday delicacies that are overlooked. A condiment for salads, a pairing with cheese, a sauce for sandwiches, and a garnish for meat. Balsamic vinegar is an everyday occurrence for many, but most do not know where this delicious oil originates from. What differentiates balsamic vinegar from other vinegars? This article will delve deep into the birth of this “black gold”, its expansion through Europe into the West, and how it became popularized. This is a particularly memorable subject for me to expand on and I am quite knowledgeable on the topic after visiting vinegar’s birth-city this past summer in Italy.

Balsamic Vinegar is Born

In the Emilia-Romagna region of northern Italy, balsamic vinegar was created in the small city of Modena, Italy. Modena is not only a gastropub for some of greatest food scenes but also a city bustling of art, automobiles and music. This region of Italy contains the ideal climatic conditions for to concentrate the sugars and acidity that go into the perfect drop of balsamic vinegar. Before diving into the first record of this substance, lets define what this magical concentrate truly is. The english name ‘balsamic’ originates from the Italian term for the vinegar, aceto balsamico. ‘Balsamico’ shares the root with ‘balm’ referring to an elixir with healing powers—explaining its recurring appearance in ancient Roman manuals for healing purposes. Balsamic vinegar distinguishes itself from other vinegars because it is derived from grape must, rather than from wine. Grape must is a concentrated syrup made from the complete juice, skin, seeds, and stems of whole pressed grapes. In its early years of production, balsamic vinegar was considered a luxury—passed on from generation to generation in families, gifting only small portions to respected friends. The concentrate would soar in popularity and soon become widespread, making Italy the leader in exporting in vinegar in the 20th century. The first written record of balsamic vinegar was in 1046 with Holy Roman Emperor Henry III, when given a silver bottle containing a “celebrated vinegar” while he was passing through a town on his way to his coronation (Wheeler 2022). The Duke soon recognized it as a premium vinegar and “the best he had ever tasted”, immediately setting up a cellar in his residence. The vinegar was then distributed to guests and used as a special gift at banquets, known as “the Duke’s Vinegar” (Smith 2016). 

The Production Process

As it gained traction in the eighteenth century, a famous agricultural manual published the vinegar production process in Modena. It detailed the vinegar’s sophisticated and unique process in the Elements of Agriculture:

“…then the must is divided into separate tubs, and a heated tile is put into each one. After that, the treated must is transferred into casks, where after one year it becomes vinegar, and can be transferred through the sequence of barrels.”

In simpler terms, the must from locally grown and harvested white grapes is heated over a flame until concentrated in half, then left to ferment naturally for up to three weeks, and then matured and further concentrated for a minimum of 12 years in a “batteria” (Wheeler 2022). A “batteria” is a series of largest to smallest aging barrels used to age the concentrate. These barrels are constructed of different types of wood in order to affect the aging process and enhance the flavor of the vinegar. Some popular woods are chestnut, cherry, juniper, oak, and mulberry. Each barrel is topped with vinegar from the larger barrel before, ensuring no barrel is ever completely empty. Once the concentrate reaches the smallest barrel in the family, it is bottled up. Below is a photograph of a batteria taken this summer in Modena at one of vineyards I visited. 

As the vinegar transfers from barrel to barrel, the liquid becomes thicker and more concentrated with age. This is due to the evaporation process and the wood walls of the barrel. In order to dub a cellar’s vinegar as “traditional balsamic vinegar”, Reggio Emilia requires a special committee of judges to taste the vinegar and determine its “grade”. The traditional balsamic grade breakdown is as follows:

• Affinato (fine), bottled in a red cap—designating a 12-year age

• Vecchio (old), bottled in a silver cap—designating a 15-20 year age

• Extra Vecchio (extra old), bottled with a gold cap—designating a 20-25 year age

Above I have attached photos from my experience in tasting different aged traditional balsamic vinegars. The illustration on the left is a 6 year aged vinegar and the right is 20 year aged vinegar. With age, the vinegar becomes more rich and velvety, taking on the flavors of the wood it matures in the barrel of.  

You Probably Own Fake Balsamic Vinegar

As the vinegar became widely popular, cheap imitations of balsamic vinegar arose across Italy and the United States. Local families producing the traditional vinegar could not managed the high demand, leading to multiple commercial producers falsely advertising their vinegar as “tradizionale” approved. In order for esteemed producers to distinguish themselves from imitators, traditional producers from Modena and Reggio applied and was granted a dual Domain of Control (DOC) in 1987 for producing “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale”. Under this declaration, only vinegars that were observed under this decree written by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture could be dubbed “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale”. These consortiums are based in Modena and Reggio and supervise the certification and bottling of all traditionally authentic balsamic. In other words, if your balsamic vinegar is from anywhere other than Modena or Reggio Emilia, it is not traditional balsamic vinegar. 

Many know our Americanized version of balsamic vinegar—what the Italians call imitation balsamic. These balsamic-inspired products include balsamic glaze and flavored balsamic vinegar that have added sweetener or coloring. These balsamic are used frequently in salad dressings or as condiments, but in reality, true traditional balsamic should never be used in these settings. Traditional balsamic is not a cooking ingredient—heat will destroy its notes and drowning it with other ingredients like dressing will tarnish its complex flavor. Traditional balsamic should be enjoyed in its pure essence—just its drops. In Modena, the cellar provided us with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and even recommended it as a garnish to desserts like ice cream or on fresh berries. It is also commonly used as a palette cleanser or digestive after meals. 

My experiences this summer in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy inspired me to write this expert article. Coming from a huge foodie family, food and culture continuously inspires me and is a concept I could expand upon for days on end. The cultural implications of certain foods to specific regions sheds light on basic beliefs, attitudes, and practices—shaping us in well-informed global citizens. I think it is important to acknowledge our westernized version of balsamic vinegar as its traditional form is important to Italy’s cultural heritage and national identity.

Works Cited

“The History of Balsamic Vinegar.” The Gift Of Oil, https://www.thegiftofoil.co.uk/the-history-of-balsamic-vinegar/. 

Maurita, et al. “A History of Balsamic Vinegar.” Supreme Vinegar, 9 Oct. 2019, https://supremevinegar.com/2016/10/19/history-balsamic-vinegar/. 

“Opera 02 by Ca' Montanari: Restaurant, Resort and Wine Cellar.” Operazerodue, 16 Feb. 2021, https://www.opera02.it/en/. 

“The Vinegar.” L'aceto Balsamico Tradizionale Di Modena DOP Dell'Acetaia Ambrosia, https://www.ambrosiabalsamico.it/en/Story_of_Balsamic_Vinegar.xhtml. 

Wheeler, Andrew. “Everything You Need to Know about Balsamic Vinegar.” Serious Eats, Serious Eats, 26 July 2022, https://www.seriouseats.com/everything-you-need-to-know-guide-to-balsamic-vinegar.